Submitted by Doug Leone, MD, and Adrienne Schupbach, MD, der and Vicki Tilton, Permanent Cosmetic Technician
Skin microneedling, also known as dry needling or collagen induction therapy, is one of the newest anti-aging skin treatments. When properly used, it is a safe, simple, relatively inexpensive procedure that results in a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles and can significantly minimize the appearance of scars, including those caused by acne. As of now, this is a fairly new procedure. But as the process gains awareness and becomes more widespread, it is important to understand what microneedling is, how it works, who is qualified to perform the procedure, and whether it is a suitable treatment for you.
The basic principle behind microneedling is not at all new. Anytime you get a cut, the body responds by sending blood to the area for healing. Blood platelets then release clotting factors, cytokines, and essential growth factors which is the right environment for the production of collagen and elastin. As your skin repairs itself, new collagen builds up in the middle layer just below the surface of the skin. As most people know, collagen production is the secret to making scars less noticeable and giving skin a more youthful appearance.
Skin needling creates a “perceived injury” by making the skin think it has been hurt so it then sends out all those healing agents in to repair; causing the wrinkles, lines, or depressed scars to be smoothed and filled in from the bottom-up. Think of it like aerating your lawn when you use a spiked wheel to remove plugs of dirt, which allows oxygen, water, and other nutrients to reach the roots of the grass. Skin needling uses the same premise. A specialized pen-like tool or handheld roller device covered with numerous tiny steel needles is run over the face, penetrating the outer layer of the skin to naturally stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Although the idea of treating your skin the same way you aerate your lawn may sound a bit drastic, the process happens on a microscopic level and outwardly the skin looks like a mild sunburn or razor burn. Results can be seen right away. Even better is that the repair process continues over the next several months so that skin continues to improve.
It is important to know that the needles used can vary in size from one to three millimeters long. Only a physician’s office can do the procedure using needles two millimeters or longer. The DermaPen device used by physicians has adjustable needle lengths so that a longer needle may be used for acne scars, and shorter ones for other areas of the face. The results of a medical grade procedure using longer needles are more impressive, but the method is also more involved.
A permanent cosmetic professional is licensed to perform the procedure using needles one millimeter in length, which is the same type of needle used in tattooing. The technique is similar to that of tattooing, but without the pigment. Under Illinois law, an esthetician license does not allow any procedure that breaks the skin. So they are only able to perform microneedling using needles less than one millimeter.
Home kits, often called “derma rollers” are readily available online. These are supposed to have needles only two-tenths of a millimeter long, so they are not very effective, particularly for scars. Do-it-yourself skin needling may not be as safe or as effective as the ads on the Internet would have you believe, so using a home derma-roller falls under a “buyer beware” category.
Skin microneedling is a simple, low-cost skin rejuvenation technique that has the following advantages:
- Needling does not damage or remove the outer skin layer.
- Side effects such as increased sun sensitivity, allergic reaction, or pigmentation changes are rare.
- Fast healing and minimal downtime.
- Treatments can be safely repeated.
You should only consider microneedling with a professionally trained technician or physician to avoid the risk of infection or skin damage.
For more information on the DermaPen skin treatment or to schedule an appointment, you may contact the Dermatology and Mohs Surgery Institute at 309-451-DERM(3376) or www.dermatologistbloomington.com. Their practice is located at 3024 E. Empire St. 2nd floor (in the Advocate BroMenn outpatient center). Dr. Leone and Dr. Schupbach specialize in medical and cosmetic dermatology, including the treatment of skin cancer, moles, acne, rashes, warts, and all skin disorders. Dr. Leone is one of the few Mohs-trained surgeons in the area.
You may also contact Vicki Tilton, Permanent Cosmetic Technician, at 309-242-4951 for information on skin microneedling.